[HOWTO] – Cutting OpenBeam – Small Power Tools

For the crew at Metrix:Create Space, we really wanted to find a tool that is in between a hacksaw and a full blown miter-saw. For this, we scoured the internet for a miniature chop saw and came across the Proxxion micro chop saw:

TAM_1914.jpg

Before we proceed, I’d like to remind folks that this is a tool where eye protection is a MUST. No project is worth losing your eyesight over, and this is a saw that can toss hot aluminum chips a good distance. I cannot be held responsible for any injury arising from the use of this saw. Wear eye protection, clamp everything down, etc.

To be honest, I am a bit disappointed with Proxxon on this saw. Proxxon markets itself as a “German” tool company – a good portion of their Youtube video features an accented male talking through the tool’s operation and a prominent link back to Proxxon.de – but the saw’s Taiwanese origin and possibly Taiwanese design influences are quite apparent. There are a few major design issues with this saw, and the build quality, as received, was awful. For one, the chop saw that I received was furnished without Loctite on the pulley’s set screw. It’s probably a bit of a bad design to be using a single set screw to tighten the power transmission pulleys on a saw like this (instead of a key joint). However, the design is completely unusable without LocTite on the screw. When we first got the saw, we followed the manufacturer’s recommendation and put on a silicon carbide abrasive cut off wheel (specifically for aluminum – Proxxon No 28729)

TAM_1902.jpg

Blade on the right was what the manufacturer recommended for cutting aluminum. Problem was, it made an awful racket and we were breaking one wheel per cut made. Upon disassembly, it turned out the set screws had backed out from the vibration from the cut and the pulleys were slipping on the shaft. As the pulley slipped, the shock load to the cut off wheel would just shatter the wheel at the attachment point to the saw. So I pulled the entire saw apart, hand filed down all the burrs left by the set screw spinning loose on the shaft, reassembled it and then Loctited the set screw in place with some Loctite 242 (Blue Loctite) and cranked the set screws down as hard as I can.

Shopping around online a little bit more, I found a carbide tipped 36 teeth saw blade for a micro table saw that Proxxon also makes. (Proxxon No 28732).

TAM_1909.jpg

Here’s a comparison between the carbide blade that we ended up using and the carbide blade that shipped with the saw. You want a fine teeth (i.e., lots of teeth) on the blade to make for a smooth cut.

We also picked up some liquid BoeLube. Boelube is a cutting fluid that Boeing came up with. Those guys know a thing or two about cutting aluminum.

With the pulleys properly secured, blade securely installed, and the extrusions clamped, we are able to achieve cuts like these:

TAM_2118.jpg

TAM_2116.jpg

TAM_2110.jpg

So what are the other issues with the saw?

Well, for one, the saw comes with the ability to tune the position of the head relative to the clamped piece. I think the designer envisioned people using this feature to fine tune the position of the cut. The only problem is that you really can’t see what you’re cutting with the polycarbonate blade guard in place. (And, under no condition should you defeat the safety guard on the saw!).

And unfortunately for me, the saw was adjusted when it came from the factory in such a way that the blade would cut right through the vise jaws when the saw is pivoted to cut a 45 degree miter:

TAM_1917.jpg

Oh, did I mention that the vise jaws are hard anodized? As in, destroy your single-source carbide blade as sparks fly sort of hard anodized?

Finally, the placement of the on-off switch is in a HORRIBLE place. In every saw I’ve used, the on-off switch is tucked into the handle to make accidental activation really difficult. Here, the on-off switch is located on the front of the machine. I’ve actually tripped it a few times putting my hands onto the handle, and it scares the crap out of me to think that the saw can be activated accidentally, when I’m making adjustments. To make things worse – this is the ONLY chop saw I’ve used that locks the blade in the UP position. Most chop saws locks the blade down, with a spring loaded guide to protect you from touching the blade accidentally. (To get around the accidental activation, we are wiring a “Dead man’s switch” to this saw station to make sure fingers are completely out of the way.)

TAM_1918.jpg

Despite all these drawbacks, the saw does cut well once you’ve put some TLC into it. And unfortunately there just aren’t that many manufacturers of micro-sized chop saws. In the next blog post in this series, I will go over in detail the modifications and refinements that we’ve made to this saw to make it a very versatile and useful addition to the Metrix tool library.

In closing, if you treated this saw as a cheap Chinese import tool – i.e., a partially assembled machine tool kit, that you have to disassemble, clean and reassemble, the saw will eventually do good work. That said, this saw definitely didn’t have a cheap Chinese import price tag to match.

Full Disclosure: I’ve signed up as an Amazon.com affiliates, and if you’re so inclined, you may order items that I’ve recommended / reviewed / mentioned in my blog through the links provided below. I receive a small commission from Amazon.com when you do so and it helps with defraying my R&D costs. Thanks!

Proxxon 37160 KGS 80 MICRO Chop Saw

Proxxon 28732 3-9/64-Inch 80mm Carbide Tipped Saw Blade 36-Teeth

Aircraft Tool Supply Boelube Liquid, 4Oz.

Henkel 01-24200 Loctite 6-ml Threadlocker 242

Loctite 37643 Blue Medium Strength Threadlocker Stick – 9 g

11 responses

  1. Jason

    What are the advantages of using this smaller-sized chop saw instead of a generic full-size chop saw? I have a 10″ DeWalt compound miter saw that I’d planned to use to cut my OpenBeam, although I haven’t yet gotten around to getting a blade for it that’s appropriate for aluminum.

    2012-August-6 at 08:35

    • Terence Tam

      The idea is to come up with a tool that is a lot smaller (thus easier to store) than a full sized chop saw. Storage space and “user friendliness” were both considerations at Metrix – we didn’t want a saw that someone could “accidentally” stick a 2×4 in.

      A full size chop saw works fine, with one caveat – you will need to space the extrusion about 1-2 inches forward from the fenceto get a clean cut. That’s because up against the fence, your saw blade more than likely will not cut cleanly through the entire extrusion.

      Most high school shop programs would probably trust their students on a mini-sized chop saw like the one I reviewed. A full blown chop saw – not so much.

      2012-August-7 at 10:41

  2. Would a cutoff saw be a better fit for straight cuts? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-12-hp-14-industrial-cut-off-saw-68104.html

    For long stock, we used an oil fed bandsaw in the shop, http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200406675_200406675.

    2012-August-7 at 10:37

    • Terence Tam

      Abrasive blades such as the one shown on that cutoff saw is really not meant for aluminum. I was actually surprised that Proxxon recommended one for cutting aluminum.

      What happens is that aluminum particles can get clogged onto the blade, and under load the particles expand and can crack the blade. And if the blade is spinning at 20,000 RPM, this would be a very bad thing.

      You’re much better off with a powered miter saw and a carbide tipped non-ferrous metal blade.

      2012-August-7 at 10:43

      • No worries. My reading comprehension goes negative after midnight as you already explained the why’s and therefor’s. 🙂

        2012-August-9 at 20:43

  3. Charlie

    What about something like this:
    http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK7322-BladeRunner-Combo-Kit/dp/B0058PBXQW/

    Picture frame cutting saw. Just curious if this would work.

    2012-August-8 at 05:31

    • Terence Tam

      It wouldn’t be my first choice, since a reciprocating jig saw blade won’t cut as cleanly as a carbide teeth rotary blade. But you’re welcome to try it and report back.

      I think that saw is mostly meant for cutting wood picture frames.

      2012-August-8 at 11:03

  4. Great post! I need a small saw for middle school students to use with me in the room, but not staring down every cut. I look forward to your mod post so that I can make the same mods, give the students a bit of training, and turn them loose. Gonna place the order through your affiliate links now. This saw is appealing because I have very little space and need to cut aluminum extrusion, small rods, and who knows what else.

    2012-August-23 at 09:50

  5. rkline1963

    I’m using a 10 inch Tenryu non-ferrous blade with a 10 inch table saw (and cross cut sled) to cut the extrusion. I used Cool Tool II as cutting lubricant with very good results. I had already bought it from McMaster Carr (part number 10075K24 ) before Terence made this post recommending Boelube. It’s not the affordable solution Terence is after, but if you have a 10 inch table saw the blade is around $80-$90 and will let you cut plastic too.

    I’ve also tapped the central channel. It is a little tricky since with the open side tap isn’t kept straight by the hole so the tap has some play and when one row of teeth is in the gap the tap can move enough that they catch and don’t go into the cut threads on the other side of the channel. I found it to be more of an issue when withdrawing the tap after cutting the theads. You have to be patient, wiggle it back and forth, and don’t force it. On the plus side, with the open side you don’t have to back the tap up periodically to break the chips of metal being cut by the tap like you do with a closed hole. I used a drop of Cool Tool II as cutting lubricant (it was actually some of the fling out from spraying the 10 inch saw blade to cut the extrusion).

    2012-September-9 at 11:53

    • Terence Tam

      Thanks for sharing! I’ve found that a gun tap (spiral point tap, that shoots the chips forward) works pretty well for tapping the center channel, much less wobbling than a traditional tap.

      2012-September-9 at 18:04

  6. Not having the room for large tools and needing a quick way to cut extrusion, I purchased one of these super cheap little chop saws ($35) http://www.amazon.com/High-Speed-Miter-Cut-Off-919/dp/B000VWHTUG/

    I didn’t expect much from it, In fact I thought i might end up throwing it away, but it turns out it is just perfect for cutting MicroRAX beams. The included blade seems to do just fine with aluminum so far. I have not tried OpenBeam yet, I think I will need to rig up some sort of jig to allow me to flip the beam without losing my spot, the 10mm of the microrax just maxes out the cuttable depth of the blade.

    2012-September-26 at 21:11

Leave a comment